Autumn in Kyoto: A Cycling Journey Through the Ancient Capital

15 Feb 2024

4 min read

Autumn in Kyoto: A Cycling Journey Through the Ancient Capital

In Kyoto, I wrote down many impromptu thoughts, most of which I’d rather keep in my notes to savor later.

“Kyotoites are fleeing Kyoto”—this has been a frequent headline in Japanese media lately. The surge in hotel investments, strict height limits on buildings, and skyrocketing land prices seem to be the final straws forcing locals to move. But as a tourist here for the autumn foliage, I hardly had the headspace to dwell on the grievances of the local population.

Why Cycling?

Kyoto is a city of two riverbanks, and while its subway system is efficient, it’s not the most convenient for reaching the classic autumn spots concentrated on the eastern side. Buses are an option, but they are often caught in heavy traffic. So, I decided to try cycling abroad for the first time. To my surprise, I ended up covering 12 kilometers in a single day.

Before coming to Japan, I watched Living in Kyoto (A Day in Kyoto), and I had countless daydreams about cycling along the Kamo River. Today, the weather was perfectly on my side.

The Morning: From Kamo River to Nanzen-ji

Starting near Kyoto Station, I pedaled north along the Kamo River, passing through Gojo, Shijo, and Sanjo before veering off toward Nanzen-ji Temple. Seeing the vibrant reds through the traditional Japanese gardens, I knew I had arrived at the peak of autumn. “I timed this perfectly!” I couldn’t help but pat myself on the back.

I find myself drawn to the meticulous landscaping of Japanese gardens. It’s a style quite distinct from the water towns of Southern China, carrying the unique Japanese aesthetics of Mono no aware (the pathos of things) and Wabi-sabi (beauty in imperfection).

Just next to the temple is the trendy Blue Bottle Coffee. Its first China branch opened in Shanghai, and the prices here are definitely on par—a coffee and a waffle cost me over 70 RMB. For locals, however, this seems to be a reasonable price point.

The Afternoon: The Golden Pavilion and Beyond

After a short rest, I crossed back over the Kamo River and headed west. This stretch was particularly challenging—riding against the wind and mostly uphill. But it was also the most spectacular part of the journey, surrounded by mountains and water, feeling as if I were moving through a four-dimensional space where different eras had collapsed into one.

I reached Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavilion), the temple associated with the historical figure who inspired Ikkyū-san. The entrance ticket is unique—it’s actually a traditional paper talisman (Omamori). This was the only place where I bought a charm, specifically one for “happiness.”

“This is the Kinkaku-ji that was rebuilt after the fire!” “It’s a reconstruction! It looks so new.” “But since we’re here, I still want to see this shimmering golden temple.”

I suspect the person saying this must be a big fan of Yukio Mishima or the monk Ikkyū.

Evening in Nishijin

In Kyoto, the sun begins to set around 4 PM. On my way back, I passed through Nishijin, a district that was the heart of the weaving industry a thousand years ago. By then, the streets were silent, as if an unspoken curfew were in place. Occasionally, a “creak” would come from a nearby machiya—closing up shop so early? Only the small shrines emitted a faint red glow. As the dark alleys felt like they might swallow my soul, I quickly switched on my bike’s front light.

I still remember the strange sensation of that ride back. I had forgotten the frustrations and setbacks of the past year in China, yet I didn’t quite feel “relaxed” either. My mind was simply… empty. I’d never experienced such “amnesia” before. Looking back, it might have just been low blood sugar!

Reflection on a Thousand-Year Capital

This ancient capital has exactly the “city flavor” I love, but it wasn’t as perfect as I imagined. Perhaps because of the pandemic or my own introverted nature, I’ve become someone who detests noisy crowds. Kyoto was recently ranked as the top global destination by a leading travel magazine, and with the autumn leaves at their peak and Japan’s visa-free policies for many countries, the crowds were beyond imagination.

By evening, I was too exhausted to visit Kiyomizu-dera for the evening foliage. I’m okay with leaving a few stones unturned—it gives me a reason to return during the off-season.