Java Island, Indonesia: Walking Along Yogyakarta's Imaginary Axis

While browsing through Yogyakarta’s travel brochures, I stumbled upon a fascinating concept: the city’s “Imaginary Axis.” This ancient Javanese urban plan was officially recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2023.

Early Javanese elites integrated spiritual beliefs into the very layout of the city. This 6km north-south axis begins at Panggung Krapyak in the south and ends at the Tugu Monument in the north, with the Sultan’s Palace (Kraton) at its center. From south to north, the axis symbolizes the different stages of human life: from birth to adulthood, and from adulthood to transcendence (or “nothingness”).

Stepping out of my hostel, I decided to walk the segment from the Sultan’s Palace to the Tugu Monument, passing through Malioboro Street and the Railway Station. In the cosmological sense, this journey represents the transition from the peak of adulthood toward the ultimate quietude of life’s end.

Malioboro Street: The Temptations of Adulthood

The famous Malioboro Street is never short of excitement. It’s the commercial heart of the city, bustling with energy and a heavy air of consumerism. Javanese women sell street food from bamboo baskets balanced skillfully on their heads; tour buses from all over Indonesia pour into the main thoroughfare; and every few steps, you encounter nearly identical shops selling Batik and local pastries. To me, this vibrant chaos perfectly represents the “temptations of adulthood.”

However, if you look closer, the main street mostly offers homogenized products. The true essence of the city is found by exploring the narrow alleys on either side. Near the railway station, I found a charming bookstore tucked away in a corner. It sold postcards that were a far cry from the mass-produced ones on the main street, along with antiques and books on Javanese culture. The owner, a Muslim lady with excellent English, chatted with me for a while. In our conversation, I picked up a few more Indonesian words: Terimakasih (thank you) and Sama-sama (you’re welcome).

Perhaps life is like that—occasionally turning into a side alley can lead to the most delightful surprises.

Crossing the Tracks toward Transcendence

Continuing north across the railway tracks, I noticed some peculiar local sights. In the busy streets of Yogyakarta, you’ll often see people suddenly darting in front of cars to wipe a windshield or direct traffic. I later learned from a driver that these individuals operate independently, earning small tips for their “services.” To my eyes, it felt a bit like the “One Dollar” culture I’d seen in Egypt.

As I reached the Tugu Monument further north, the noise of the city began to fade. A sudden downpour started, so I ducked into one of the many nearby cafes. Sitting by the window, watching the world go by, I realized for the first time how rhythmic Indonesian music is. I even went up to the barista to ask for their entire playlist of the day.

In Javanese philosophy, the Tugu Monument represents enlightenment and the ability to free oneself from obstacles, temptations, and worldly desires (symbolized by Malioboro Street). It’s about returning to one’s original state with a peaceful mind and learning to endure.

Even if that endurance means drinking a cup of traditional Indonesian coffee that hasn’t been fully filtered, or dealing with a dozen mosquito bites on your legs… Eventually, my endurance hit its limit. The barista urged me to go to an “Apotik” (pharmacy) immediately to buy some local ointment. Indeed, as you reach the “old age” end of the axis, you inevitably end up needing some medicine.

If you use your imagination, every detail of the journey can fit the deep symbolism of the Imaginary Axis.