A Walk Through History: From Yonsei University to Yeonhui-dong

In Korea, the top three universities are collectively known as “SKY”: Seoul National University, Korea University, and Yonsei University. While universities aren’t typically the first choice for tourists in Seoul, I found myself exploring a fascinating loop starting from Yonsei University as I made my way toward the hidden gems of Yeonhui-dong.

This route starts at the south gate of Yonsei University, winds up through the campus into Ansan Mountain Park, passes a Chinese overseas high school, and ends in the quiet, historic neighborhood of Yeonhui-dong. It’s a journey that blends nature, modern Korean history, and centuries-old ties between China and Korea.

1. Yonsei University: A Legacy of Education and Democracy

Yonsei University is located in Sinchon, Seoul’s famous university district. The nearby Severance Hospital, the university’s teaching hospital, carries the name of Louis Severance, an American philanthropist who funded its establishment. Founded by American missionaries, Yonsei’s history is deeply intertwined with Western influence and the modernization of Korean medicine.

The Spirit of 1987

Near the university’s south gate stands a memorial that carries a profound weight: the Lee Han-yeol Memorial. Unlike traditional vertical monuments, this one lies horizontally, engraved with a string of numbers that tell a tragic yet pivotal story: 198769757922.

• 1987: The year of the June Democratic Struggle.
• 6/9: On June 9, Lee Han-yeol, a Yonsei student, was struck by a tear gas canister during a protest.
• 7/5: He passed away after nearly a month in a coma.
• 7/9: A national funeral was held, with a massive procession moving from Yonsei University toward Gwanghwamun.
• 22: His age when he died.

This event became a turning point for Korean democracy, eventually leading to the end of military dictatorship. The story was adapted into the powerful film 1987: When the Day Comes.

2. Into the Woods: Hiking Ansan Mountain

Leaving the weight of history behind, I headed toward my next stop: the Seoul Overseas Chinese High School. To avoid backtracking, I decided to cut through the university and up into the mountains.

Yonsei University is built against the slopes of Ansan Mountain. As I climbed higher, I encountered groups of elderly hikers with professional-looking gear and pristine outdoor outfits. Following their lead, I found a small path that led out of the campus and into the forest.

Despite the sweltering July heat, the path was flat and well-shaded by dense trees. Every few dozen meters, I noticed emergency call boxes and signs with safety instructions, a testament to how well-maintained Seoul’s urban hiking trails are. This “Forest Bath” in the heart of the city was exactly what I needed to escape the summer sun.

3. A Slice of History: The Overseas Chinese School

After about 4.5 kilometers of walking, I reached the Seoul Overseas Chinese High School. This is an international school for ethnic Chinese residents in Korea, using curriculum and textbooks from Taiwan.

Hidden within the school grounds is a historic treasure: the Shrine of General Wu Wuzhuang (Wu Changqing). General Wu was a Qing Dynasty commander sent to Seoul in 1882 to help quell a military rebellion. Among his subordinates were figures who would later change the course of history, including Yuan Shikai.

Originally located near Dongdaemun, the shrine was moved to the school’s grounds in 1977 during urban redevelopment, saved by donations from the local Chinese community. While it’s usually closed to the public, its presence is a quiet reminder of the long-standing ties between the two nations.

4. Yeonhui-dong: The Quiet Neighborhood of Presidents

Finally, I arrived in Yeonhui-dong, an old-money neighborhood in Seoul. Unlike the flashy new wealth of Gangnam, Yeonhui-dong is quiet, understated, and surprisingly peaceful.

This neighborhood was once the home of former president Chun Doo-hwan. Finding his house was a challenge, as it’s not explicitly marked on major Korean maps like Naver or Kakao. However, Google Maps—which is usually less reliable in Korea—had it marked as a “historical landmark.”

The house remains a site of complex emotions for many Koreans. It was here that Chun issued his apology in 1988 after stepping down, and it was where he lived until his death in 2021. Today, the high walls are lined with security cameras, a silent testament to a controversial chapter in the nation’s history.

Walking through Yeonhui-dong, the noise of the city fades away, replaced by the rustle of pine trees and the sound of quiet footsteps on the pavement.

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Recommended Media

• Films: 1987: When the Day Comes, A Taxi Driver, The Attorney, 12.12: The Day.
• TV Series: The Fifth Republic.
• Books: Flipping Seoul, Peninsula Memories Before Dawn.